Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ):

Insulation is any material mainly used to slow down heat flow. It may be mineral or organic, fibrous, cellular, or reflective (aluminum foil). It may be in rigid, semirigid, flexible, or loose-fill form. Home insulation is for use in old or new homes, condominiums, cooperatives, apartments, modular homes, or mobile homes. It does not include pipe insulation. It does not include any kind of duct insulation except for duct wrap.

A: "R-Value" is another word for measurement of insulation. The larger or greater the R-Value, the thicker the insulation. Basically, the insulation R-value is a measurement of heat resistance. It is the inverse of the U-value, so the higher the R-value, the better the insulation resists heat transfer.

Many factors can affect the R-value of insulation, including the type of insulation, and the age of the insulation. To determine the R-value of the insulation in your house, first determine the type of insulation present, whether that insulation is new, and measure the depth of the insulation in inches.

A: This depends on the climate where you live. Louisiana is in Zone 2 where standards call for R-13 KF (exterior walls), R-19 KF (knee walls) and R-30 (attic).

A: Batts are large rolls of insulation that an installer rolls out and places in walls and in some areas of the attic.

A: Blown-in installation is loose fiber-glass insulation from a machine. Installers blow in the installation into attics and also into walls.

A: 1. Have the right R-Value. There are set limits on insulation for different areas of the country. The standards for the Zone 2 areas (Louisiana) are R-13 KF for exterior walls, R-19 KF for knee walls (walls open to the attic) and R-30 blown into the attic.

2. Be sure to use Polyseal foam around all electrical and plumbing penetrations, doors and base plates.

3. Consider upgrading your 2X4 exterior walls to R-15 KF. If a 2X6 exterior wall is used in your home, you can choose R-19 or R-21 KF.

4. You can also upgrade your attic from R-30 to R-38 for greater comfort.

A: There are three important differences between fiber glass and cellulose:
1. Fire Resistance - Fiber glass is made mostly of inorganic materials and therefore is naturally non-combustible and has a low flame spread rating. It will maintain its fire resistance over its lifetime. On the other hand, cellulose is made up of newspaper, which is organic and naturally flammable. Therefore, approximately 20% of the finished cellulose product is comprised of fire retardant chemicals (80% newspaper / 20% fire retardant chemicals). These fire retardant chemicals may not be applied consistently and may deteriorate over time. Smoldering and re-kindling of fires have been reported with this product.
2. Moisture Absorption - fiber glass is installed dry and does not absorb or retain moisture. Cellulose is often installed damp and needs to fully dry after installation. Even after drying, cellulose can absorb moisture, which can lower the R-value of the product and may promote fungal growth.
3. Settling - Fiber glass has nearly no settling (1-3%). Therefore, the R-value is stable over time. Cellulose can settle or shrink causing the R-value to deteriorate over time. Unless 20% or more extra thickness is installed, you can't be sure of achieving the desired R-value.

With foam insulation you are controlling the air infiltration and reducing the entry of dust, pollen, mold and mildew. By controlling the air infiltration you are controlling your energy bills. Also, during installation, the foam bonds tight to the framing and adds strength to the structure of your home.

The foam will not settle over time as some of the other products do. It will remain the same years down the road. Also, foam minimizes sounds and acts as a sound barrier.

“R” refers to resistance to heat flow. But heat flow resistance in only part of the formula for effective insulation. R-valve doesn’t measure the amount of air infiltration or moisture that penetrates through an insulated wall. In other words, the measurement doesn’t factor in real-world weather conditions. The only way to eliminate air infiltration and moisture is to completely seal the building tight and use mechanical ventilation equipment to regulate moisture and balance air pressure.